Jumat, 30 Desember 2011

scrub Exfoliation


Exfoliation involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of all facials, during microdermabrasion or chemical peels at medical spas. Exfoliation can be achieved through mechanical or chemical means.
History
Credit is given to the ancient Egyptians for the practice of exfoliation. In the Middle Ages, wine was used as a chemical exfoliant, with tartaric acid as the active agent. In Asia, the practice of exfoliation started hundreds of years ago. The etymology of the word exfoliate comes from the Latin exfoliare (to strip off leaves).
Importance
New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. Through the ageing process, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts. Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin.[citation needed] Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave. It is possible to over exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation.[7] Hence, provided that exfoliating causes the skin to dry out, it is very important to moisturize it, because dry skin can lead to wrinkle development.
Types
Exfoliation is achieved through either mechanical or chemical means.
Mechanical
Exfoliation methods used by women in Canada in 2011. Shown: top right, a bath sponge made of plastic mesh; lower right, a brush with a pumice stone on one side and a natural bristle brush on the other side, for foot exfoliation; lower left, a mud mask package for facial exfoliation; top left, a jar of perfumed body scrub to be used while bathing.
This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive. Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges, loofahs, brushes, and simply fingernails.[8][9] Facial scrubs are available in over-the-counter products for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material to exfoliate the skin of the feet. Microdermabrasion and Micro Diamondabrasion are also mechanical methods of exfoliation.
Chemical
Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a medical professional, or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter products. Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away.[7] This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne. In beauty spa treatment on continental Europe the chemical properties of wine producing grapes are exploited in the practice of Vinotherapy which is becoming increasingly popular.
With hair removal
Some methods of hair removal also exfoliate the skin.
  • Waxing is a mechanical process which is done with the intention of plucking the hair, which also functions as a mechanical exfoliant. As this is done every two to eight weeks, it is not performed as frequently as many exfoliate, so it does not fully substitute for a regimen, but may substitute for a normal session in a regimen.
  • Nair is an example of a chemical hair removal product which also functions as a chemical exfoliant. It is done more frequently than waxing (once a week rather than once a month) since it only destroys hair partially below the skin, rather than destroying the entire root as with waxing. Using it weekly can substitute for a weekly exfoliant regime. It is a very aggressive chemical and cannot be used on the face so other exfoliants would need to be used on the face.
  • Wetshaving also has exfoliating properties; first, the action of moving a shaving brush vigorously across the face washes the face and removes dead skin at the same time. After applying the lather with a brush, the use of a double-edged safety razor or straight razor removes dead skin simply by the fact that the aforementioned razors are dragged much closer across the skin and remove dead skin more effectively than a cartridge or electric razor.
Promotion
In popular media, exfoliants are advertised as treatments which promote beauty, youthful appearance, or health.
Disadvantages
The greatest disadvantage to exfoliation is the high price of some of the products and methods used to achieve it. Exfoliation will lead to some initial redness to the skin. Near the end of chemical peels, the skin will frost, with colours varying from a bright white to grey on the skin surface. 


Skin Care: Jojoba Scrub
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Body care >> Moisturizing products (creams & lotions)
Supplier
Gattefosse
End consumer benefits
smoothness
Description
Ivory cream with white particles. Creamy body scrub to smooth the skin.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
6.00%
A
8.00%
A
3.00%
A
5.00%
B
55.10%
B
10.00%
B
3.00%
C
5.00%
C
0.30%
D
3.00%
D
1.00%
D
0.60%
Properties
pH = 5.5 ± 0.5
Viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle C, speed 5) : approx. 58 000 mPa.s after 24h.
Procedure
1. Under stirring, disperse Vivapur COS 5 (20 min) into water of phase II heated to 75°C.

2. Add Extrait Originel Orange Bio.

3. Prepare III, mix and add under stirring to II heated to 75°C.

4. Prepare I and heat to 75°C.

5. Under rapid stirring (3000 rpm), add I to II+III.

6. Maintain rapid stirring for about 10 min.

7. Cool under stirring and at about 35°C, add IV and V.

8. Complete cooling.

Skin Care: EXFOLIATING FOOT SCRUB
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial cleansing >> Exfoliating products
Supplier
Global-Seven
End consumer benefits

Description
EXFOLIATING FOOT SCRUB
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
66.20%
A
0.50%
A
8.00%
A
4.00%
A
4.00%
A
4.00%
A
0.96%
A
8.00%
A
4.00%
A
0.09%
A
0.05%
A
0.20%
Properties
-
Procedure
1) Heat the Hetoxol D, GMS SE and Cetyl Alcohol to 8085C.

2) In a separate vessel, disperse the Carbopol Ultrez 21 in the water.
After it is hydrated, add the Mackam 2C and begin heating to the
same temperature.

3) With adequate mixing, slowly add Step 1 to Step 2 and continue
mixing for 10 minutes.

4) Reduce mixing speed and begin cooling to room temperature.

5) Add the AMP95
at 65C and continue cooling.

6) Add the Germaben IIE,
Microscrub 20 PC, Naturebead B20 and
colors and continue cooling.

Skin Care: Salicylic Acid Facial Scrub
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial cleansing >> Exfoliating products
Supplier
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.
End consumer benefits

Description
This salicylic acid facial scrub with jojoba beads demonstrates the compatibility, thickening, and suspending properties provided by Acrylates Copolymer (30%) in a very low pH formula.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
35.45
A
5.00
A
15.00
A
0.75(q.s. to pH 6.5)
A
0.50(q.s. to pH 5.3)
B
15.00
B
10.00
B
2.00
B
2.00
C
10.00
C
2.00
C
0.10
C
0.20
C
Jojoba Beads
1.00
C
Jojoba Beads
1.00
Properties
Appearance: Translucent, viscous liquid with suspended beads; pH: 3.8 - 4.0; Viscosity, (mPa$s): 5,500 - 10,000; Yield Value (dyne/cm2): 230 - 320; Turbidity (NTU): 150 - 190; Stability Passed 3 months @ 45°C; Passed 5 cycles freeze / thaw
Procedure
1. PART A: Add Acrylates Copolymer (30%) to deionized water.
2. Add the AOS surfactant with gentle mixing.
3. Neutralize with sodium hydroxide (18%) to pH 6.5.
4. Reduce pH to 5.2 - 5.4 with citric acid solution.
5. PART B: In a side vessel, combine PART B ingredients in order. SLOWLY add PART B to PART A with mixing. (Note: Adding PART B too quickly may result in polymer precipitation.)
6. PART C: Add ingredients to batch in order.


Toiletries: Sea Salt Scrub for Normal to Dry Skin
Category
Toiletries (Shower & Bath, Oral care...) >> Shower & bath >> Exfoliating & peeling products
Supplier
Somerset
End consumer benefits

Description
Sea Salt Scrub for Normal to Dry Skin
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
10.3
A
10
A
Avocado Butter
8
A
3
A
2
A
0.1
A
SL-Polyglyceryl Laurate
2.4
B
64
C
0.2
Properties
This salt scrub removes dead skin cells and moisturizes the skin with avocado butter and precious oil. Massage on dampen skin and rinse off.
Procedure
Add phase A into a disinfected glass jar and heat to 150oF/66oC to melt the butter and wax. After phase A has cooled below 100F/40C add phase B and stir. At last add phase C and stir again.

Toiletries: Waterless skin scrub with D-Limonene No. 479
Category
Toiletries (Shower & Bath, Oral care...) >> Shower & bath
Supplier
Croda
End consumer benefits

Description
Skin scrub with no water
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
Veegum Ultra Magnesium Aluminium Silicate
2.0
A
Vanzan NF, Xanthan Gum
0.6
A
51.7
B
10.0
B
10.0
B
1.0
B
1.0
B
1.0
C
0.7
D
D-limonene
10.0
E
Polyethylene beads (A-C 9-A20)
10.0
F
q.s
Properties
-
Procedure
Begin heating the water to 75°C. Dry blend the Weegum Ultra and Vanzan NF; add to the water slowly, mixing with maximum available shear until fully hydrated. maintain the water phase at 75°C. Blend the part B oil phase ingredients and heat to 75°C. Add the oil phase to the water phase with good agitation; mix until uniform.Cool while mixing.add the Part C solution of potassium hydroxide in water when the emulsion is 45°C. Continue to cool while mixing and add Part D,E and F when the emulsion is <35°C

Skin Care: SUGAR SCRUB
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care)
Supplier
Global-Seven
End consumer benefits

Description
SUGAR SCRUB
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
15.5%
A
13.8%
A
0.3%
A
69.0%
A
1.4%
Properties
-
Procedure
1) Combine the Global 4075, Propylene glycol and Sodium Stearate,
mix well and heat to 80C with mixing until homogeneous.

2) In a separate vessel heat the Mineral Oil to the same temperature.

3) Add step 2 to step 1 and mix.

4) Add the sugar with mixing.
5) Cool to room temperature.
Skin care: Facial Scrub
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial cleansing >> Exfoliating products
Supplier
National Starch and Chemical-Personal Care
End consumer benefits

Description
This formula uses Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer to suspend polyethylene beads used for cleansing and scrubbing the face.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
8.00
A
39.28
A
13.33
A
20.00
A
2.00
A
0.75
A
1.25
A
0.08
A
0.05
A
0.40
A
Qs to pH 5.5
Properties
pH: 5.73; Viscosity: 17,000 cps (Brookfield, Spindle #4, 20 RPM)
Procedure
In a suitable size beaker, add water and Sodium Laureth Sulfate and mix until uniform. Next add Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer and continue mixing. With continued mixing, add Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Polysorbate 20, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and glycerin. Let mix for 15 minutes. Slowly add Polethylene Beads until they are completely dispersed. Add the dye and Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide and mix until uniform. QS to pH 5.5 with citric acid and add preservative last.

Skin care: Mild Face Scrub
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial cleansing >> Eye make-up removers
Supplier
Chemlishes Laboratorium Dr Kurt Richter GmbH
End consumer benefits
mildness
Description
Mild Face Scrub
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
ad 100
A
Sodium EDTA
0.05
A
1.0
B
5.0
B
1.0
B
0.1
B
0.1
B
Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
2.5
B
q.s.
B
10.0
C
q.s.
D
Milk Protein
2.5
E
0.7
Properties
-
Procedure
Mix A and stir until completely soaked. Add the ingredients of B in the given order with stirring. Adjust pH value to 5.2 – 5.6 with C. Add D and E under stirring.

Skin Care: Cleansing Scrub
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial cleansing >> Exfoliating products
Supplier
Engelhard-BASF
End consumer benefits
transparency
Description
Clear gel with silver sparkles and blue beads.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
1.00
B
15.00
B
0.40
B
0.25
B
Preservatives
q.s.
B
0.04
B
0.80
Properties
Viscosity: 20,000 ± 500 cps; pH: 5.50 ± 0.50
Procedure
Disperse Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer in water with high-shear agitation. Mix until uniform. Add ingredients of Phase B one by one and mix until uniform.

Body care-Scrub-a-dub-dub Body Wash
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Body care >> Moisturizing foams
Supplier
Desert Whale Jojoba
End consumer benefits
bio/ organic
Description
Body wash containing Jojoba Scrubeads™ that cleanses and gently exfoliates the skin. Jojoba Scrubeads™ are a natural, affordable alternative to synthetic exfoliates.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
59.20%
A
8.00%
B
20.0%
C
1.40%
C
6.00%
D
1.00%
D
0.05%
E
0.20%
E
2.00%
F
0.80%
F
0.10%
F
0.20%
F
1.00%
F
0.01%
F
0.04%
Properties
-
Procedure
1. Combine phase A and heat to 75C with propeller mixing, then stop heating.

2. Add Plantaren with propeller.

3. Adjust pH to 6.5 with NaoH solution of phase C, then add Amphosol of phase C with propeller.

4. Add premixed phase D with propeller.

5. Add phase E ingredients with propeller.

6. Adjust pH to 7.4 with NaOH of phase F, then adjust to 7.1 with citric acid of phase F.

7. Add the remaining phase F ingredients with propeller at room temperature.

Formulation peeling cream
. Toiletries: Peel-it-off ST-56
Category
Toiletries (Shower & Bath, Oral care...) >> Shower & bath >> Exfoliating & peeling products
Supplier
Arch now part of Lonza
End consumer benefits
softness
Description
Peel-It-Off restores skin’s natural glow by erasing dull dead skin and pore clogging oil! This gentle botanical extract mask combines Water & Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract & Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract & Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract & Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract & Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Extract & Water & Salix Nigra (Willow) Extract and Betaine Salicylate for outstanding exfoliation action. These three ingredients provide Salicylic and Alpha Hydoxy Acids, which enhance the skin’s natural cell renewal process. Water & Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Root Extract provides an antioxidant effect and protects the skin from harsh environmental conditions. Diisocetyl Dodecanedioate gives the skin a soft, luxurious after-feel, while Water &
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
1.25
A
13.00
B
6.00
B
3.00
B
2.00
B
2.00
C
20.00
C
2.00
D
2.00
D
2.00
D
2.00
D
2.00
E
0.75
E
0.50
E
0.50
Properties
pH: 3.75 – 4.25; Viscosity: 40,000 – 60,000 (Spindle # 6, 10 Rpm @ 25°C)
Procedure
1. Slowly add the Magnesium Aluminum Silicate to water while mixing. Allow the Veegum to hydrate under the maximum available shear for a minimum of 30 minutes. Slowly add Celvol 523S to the Phase A and heat to 75°C.
2. Add Phase B to the Phase A while mixing and cool.
3. In a separate container, with moderate heating combine Phase C and add to the batch.
4. Add Phase D and mix until form.
5. Add Phase E and mix until uniform.



Skin Care:Masks & peel-off products:Face mask with Retinol
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Masks & peel-off products
Supplier
BASF
End consumer benefits
protection
Description
O/W formulation. Retinol results in healthier looking skin.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
2.00
A
2.00
A
6.00
A
1.00
A
4.00
A
5.00
B
5.00
B
0.10
B
3.00
B
6.00
B
Preservative
q.s.
B
57.70
C
1.00
C
0.10
C
0.10
C
1.00
C
q.s.
D
5.00
D
1.00
Properties
Viscosity: 39000 mPa·s Brookfield RVD VII+; pH value: 7.0
Procedure
Heat phases A and B separately to about 85°C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Cool to about 40°C, add phases C and D whilst homogenizing, then cool to room temperature whilst stirring.









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Skin Care:Masks & peel-off products:Soothing Citrus Aromatherapy Mask
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Masks & peel-off products
Supplier
Dow Corning
End consumer benefits
protection
relaxing
smoothness
soothing
Description
Nourish your skin with a fragrant mask that delivers essential oils with the essence of mandarin, lemon and orange. This thick, elastic mask cools the skin, then leaves it feeling rich and smooth after removal.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
to 100
A
5
A
2
A
2.9
A
2.3
B
10
B
10
B
2.5
B
8.6
B
Lemon Essence
0.5
B
Mandarin Essence
1.25
B
Orange Essence
1.25
Properties
-
Procedure
1. Mix all phase B ingredients in a closed container with a condenser using a high shear (nitrogen purge is recommended)
2. Heat phase B to 65?C
3. Mix all phase A ingredients and heat to 65?C
4. Add phase A to phase B using a funnel (on top of the closed container) with a slow continuous flow, mixing at 700 rpm
5. Continue mixing for 5 minutes after phase A is added
6. Stop mixing and allow to cool to achieve final texture

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Skin Care: Masks & peel-off products:Powdered face mask
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Masks & peel-off products
Supplier
Ineos Silicas
End consumer benefits

Description
-
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
60.00
A
5.00
A
5.00
A
Avena Sativa
5.00
A
22.00
A
2.50
A
0.20
A
0.20
A
0.10
Properties
-
Procedure
Blend together all phase A ingredients.



Skin Care:Masks & peel-off products:Soothing Citrus Aromatherapy Mask
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Masks & peel-off products
Supplier
Dow Corning
End consumer benefits
protection
relaxing
smoothness
soothing
Description
Nourish your skin with a fragrant mask that delivers essential oils with the essence of mandarin, lemon and orange. This thick, elastic mask cools the skin, then leaves it feeling rich and smooth after removal.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
to 100
A
5
A
2
A
2.9
A
2.3
B
10
B
10
B
2.5
B
8.6
B
Lemon Essence
0.5
B
Mandarin Essence
1.25
B
Orange Essence
1.25
Properties
-
Procedure
1. Mix all phase B ingredients in a closed container with a condenser using a high shear (nitrogen purge is recommended)
2. Heat phase B to 65?C
3. Mix all phase A ingredients and heat to 65?C
4. Add phase A to phase B using a funnel (on top of the closed container) with a slow continuous flow, mixing at 700 rpm
5. Continue mixing for 5 minutes after phase A is added
6. Stop mixing and allow to cool to achieve final texture








Skin Care:Masks & peel-off products:Cooling Face Mask
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Masks & peel-off products
Supplier
Quest International
End consumer benefits
fresh feeling/cooling effect
moisturizing
Description
An active slow release coolant and moisturiser.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
to 100.00
A
5.00
A
24.00
A
0.30
B
1.20
B
1.00
B
0.30
B
1.00
B
0.20
B
2.30
C
0.05
C
0.01
Properties
-
Procedure
Mix the water, glycerine and Polysorbate 20 together. Slowly sift in the kaolin with gentle stirring. Kaolin takes a while to fully disperse therefore after adding it mix using a high shear mixing for a further five to ten minutes to develop a smooth solution. Heat the kaolin mixture gently to 80C. While the mixture is heating, in a smaller beaker place the Menthyl PCA ; Menthol; DPG, dipropylene glycol and Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben together and mix. Add the powders of phase B slowly to these liquids and allow to fully wet out in order to form a powdered slurry. Immediately add this powdered slurry to the kaolin mixture whilst under high shear. (NB: no heat should be applied at this stage.) The gel should become very lumpy after a while but will turn to a smooth texture after mixing in a silverson mixer for ten to fifteen minutes with constant monitoring. Stir cool to prevent lumps from forming. Once cool, add phase C and mix to obtain uniform color.








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