Jumat, 30 Desember 2011

Anti aging creams

Anti-aging creams are predominantly moisturiser based cosmeceutical skin care products marketed with the promise of making the consumer look younger by reducing visible wrinkles, expression lines, blemishes, pigmentation changes, discolourations and other environmentally (especially from the sun) related conditions of the skin. A comprehensive grading scale for anti-aging of the skin has been validated and categorizes skin aging as: laxity (sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), and the various categories of photoaging, including erythema (redness), dyspigmentation (brown discolorations), solar elastosis (yellowing), keratoses (abnormal growths), and poor texture.
Despite great demand, many such products and treatments have not been proven to give lasting or major positive effects. One study found that the best performing creams reduced wrinkles by less than 10% over 12 weeks which is not noticeable to the human eye. Another study found that cheap moisturisers were as effective as high-priced anti-wrinkle creams. However, recent studies at Manchester University showed that some ingredients have an effect.
Traditionally, anti-aging creams have been marketed towards women, but products specifically targeting men are increasingly common.
Ingredients
As well as more conventional moisturising ingredients, anti-aging creams usually contain anti-aging ingredients such as:
  • Retinol (for instance, in the form of retinyl palmitate). In various formulations it has been shown to reduce fine lines and pores.
  • Epidermal Growth Factor, made of 53 amino acids to stimulate cell renewal and Collagen production in the skin and strengthen elasticity and structure. The discovery of Epidermal Growth Factor won Dr. Stanley Cohen a Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine in 1986. In various research Epidermal Growth Factor has been shown to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and sagging. It also has healing (wounds and burns) and anti-inflammatory properties when applied to skin.
  • Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids or other chemical peels. These help to dissolve the intracellular "glue" that holds the dead cells together on the skin. The use of this type of product on a daily basis gradually enhances the exfoliation of the epidermis. This exposes newer skin cells and can help improve appearance. AHAs may irritate some skin, causing redness and flaking.
  • Peptides, such as Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3), Matryxil, and copper peptides.
  • Coenzyme Q10
  • Anti-oxidants are substances that may protect cells from the damage caused by unstable molecules known as free radicals.
  • Sunscreens. A high level of UVA protection is recommended as UVA radiation is associated with aging effects such as wrinkles.
  • Vitamin C. Supposedly one of the most effective and commonly included ingredient in wrinkle creams, also known to help the healing process.
The effects of these ingredients depends on their concentration and mode of application. Many skin care companies recommend using a treatment programme which may combine these ingredients. For example, AHAs can make the skin more vulnerable to damage from the sun, so the increased use of sunscreens is often recommended.
Alternative approaches
Traditional moisturisers or sunscreens may provide many of the same benefits as some anti-aging creams.
Mechanical exfoliation is an alternative to chemical peels using ingredients such as crushed apricot kernals, salt, sponges or brushes.
Advertising sometimes presents anti-aging creams as an alternative to plastic surgery and botox injections, which may be more costly and invasive treatments.
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Decorative cosmetics: Anti-Aging Eye Cream
Category
Decorative cosmetics/Make-up >> Eyes Shadows & Creams
Supplier
Lubrizol
End consumer benefits
moisturizing
Description
Schercemol™* LL Ester, which is based on alpha-hydroxy acid, has a low coefficient of friction and therefore imparts this anti-aging cream with a high degree of slip. The emulsion quickly breaks to facilitate targeted delivery, because of the high contact angle low spreading Schercemol™* SHS and DISD Esters. A soft afterfeel leaves the skin feeling elegant throughout the day and collagen extract provides moisturization over long-term use.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
79.25%
A
0.50%
A
0.05%
A
0.30%
A
1.00%
B
3.00%
B
2.50%
B
3.00%
B
3.00%
B
0.70%
B
1.50%
B
2.00%
C
1.50%
C
0.60%
C
0.50%
C
0.60%
Properties
Appearance : Off-white Lotion pH: 5.5 – 6.0 Viscosity (mPa.s)**: 19,000 - 24,000 Stability: Passed 2 months @ 50°C, Passed 4 Freeze/Thaw cycles ** Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured after 24 hours
Procedure
1. Dissolve Sodium Hyaluronate and Disodium EDTA in deionized
water.
2. Disperse Carbopol®* Ultrez 10 Polymer by sprinkling on the
surface of PART A. After polymer has wetted, mix slowly for 10
minutes.
3. Add Tapioca Starch to PART A and heat to 60°C.
4. In a separate vessel, combine PART B ingredients and heat to
65°C.
5. Add PART B to A and mix until uniform.
6. Begin cooling batch.
7. Add ingredient 13 to batch, mix until uniform.
8. Add ingredient 14 to batch, mix until uniform.
9. Add ingredient 15 & 16 to batch, mix until uniform.
10. Adjust for any water loss due to evaporation with deionized water if necessary.

Skin Care- Facial Care-Anti Ageing Sweety Cream
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Anti-Ageing preparations
Supplier
Stearinerie Dubois
End consumer benefits
smoothness
Description
Anti Ageing Sweety Cream
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
10.0
A
5.0
A
2.5
A
3.0
A
2.0
B
4.0
B
6.0
C
3.0
C
0.2
D
qs
D
qs
Properties
-
Procedure
Mix at 600 tr/min phase A at 60°C. Mix at 1000 tr/min phase B at 70°C. Add A in B at 80°C at 600 tr/min , homogenize during 30 minutes then cool at 40°C add C, then at room temperature adjust pH with triethanolamine , add perfume.

Skin care: Anti Aging-Happy cells
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Anti-Ageing preparations
Supplier
Dow Corning
End consumer benefits
absorption
light feeling
smoothness
Description
Water-in-oil skin cream, provides fast absorption and maintains youthful appearance.
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
1
A
5
A
5
B
2
B
13
B
5
B
4
B
5
B
3
B
2
B
2
B
0.8
B
0.2
C
2
Properties
Stability: Stable for at least 3 months at room temperature and 40°C.
Procedure
1. Mix ingredients of phase B together.
2. Stir until the mixture is homogeneous.
3. Mix ingredients of phase A together.
4. Slowly add Phase A to Phase B.
5. Continue mixing for an additional 5 minutes.
6. Add phase C with mixing.
7. Continue mixing for an additional 5 minutes.
8. Use high speed mixing.




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