Kamis, 29 Desember 2011

NIGHT CREAM



Pengupasan secara kimia ( chemical peel) adalah teknik perawatan tubuh untuk meningkatkan dan menghaluskan tekstur kulit wajah dengan menggunakan larutan kimia yang menyebabkan kulit mati agar mengelupas dan akhirnya terkelupas. Kulit regenersi biasanya halus dan lebih sedikit berkerut daripada kulit tua. Jadi dari proses itu istilah chemical peel berasal. Beberapa jenis chemical peel  dapat dibeli dan diberikan tanpa lisensi dokter, namun orang disarankan untuk mencari bantuan dari dokter kulit, aesthetician, ahli bedah plastik, atau otolaryngologist pada jenis tertentu bahan chemical peel sebelum prosedur dilakukan.

Berikut adalah beberapa jenis chemical peel


Alpha hydroxy acid peels

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally occurring carboxylic acids such as glycolic acid, a natural constituent of sugar cane juice and lactic acid, found in sour milk and tomato juice. This is the mildest of the peel formulas and produces light peels for treatment of fine wrinkles, areas of dryness, uneven pigmentation and acne. Alpha hydroxy acids can also be mixed with a facial wash or cream in lesser concentrations as part of a daily skin-care regimen to improve the skin's texture.
There are five usual fruit acids: citric acids (citrus-derived), glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane), lactic acid (although derived from milk, this is still considered a "fruit acid"), malic acid (derived from apples) and tartaric acid (derived from grapes). Many other alpha hydroxy acids exist and are used.
  • Citric acid: Usually derived from lemons, oranges, limes and pineapples. These peels are simple and effective, although not incredibly invasive or capable of significant improvement with one treatment.
  • Glycolic acid: Formulated from sugar cane, this acid creates a mild exfoliating action. Glycolic acid peels work by loosening up and exfoliating the superficial top layer. This peel also stimulates collagen growth. High strength peels are good in terms of efficacy but they irritate more. Some glycolic peels claim the use of strontium nitrate in order to try to reduce skin irritation. Nevertheless, strontium nitrate is a product which is strictly prohibited in cosmetic products since it has a high toxic potential
  • Lactic acid: This acid is derived from either sour milk or bilberries. This peel will remove dead skin cells, and promote healthier skin.
  • Malic acid: This peel is the same type of mildly invasive peel derived from the extracts of apples. It can open up the pores, allow the pores to expel their sebum and reduce acne.
  • Tartaric acid: This is derived from grape extract and is capable of delivering the same benefits as the above peels.
AHA peels are not indicated for treating wrinkles.
AHA peels may cause stinging, cause skin redness, cause mild skin irritation, cause dryness, and take multiple treatments for desired results.

Beta hydroxy acid peels

It is becoming common for beta hydroxy acid (BHA) peels to be used instead of the stronger alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels due to BHA's ability to get deeper into the pore than AHA. Studies show that BHA peels control oil, acne as well as remove dead skin cells to a certain extent better than AHAs due to AHAs only working on the surface of the skin. Salicylic acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid.

Jessner's peel

Jessner's peel solution, formerly known as the Coombe's formula,was pioneered by Dr Max Jessner, a German-American dermatologist. Dr Jessner combined 14% salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol in an ethanol base. It is thought to break intracellular bridges between keratinocytes. It is very difficult to "overpeel" the skin due to the mild percentages associated with the acid combination.

Retinoic acid peel

Retinoic acid is derived from retinoids. This type of facial peel is also performed in the office of a plastic surgeon or a dermatologist in a medical spa setting. This is a deeper peel than the beta hydroxy acid peel and is used to remove scars as well as wrinkles and pigmentation problems. It is usually performed in conjunction with a Jessner; which is performed right before, in order to open up the skin, so the retinoic acid can penetrate on a deeper level. The client leaves with the chemical peel solution on their face. The peeling process takes place on the third day. More dramatic changes to the skin require multiple peels over time.

Trichloroacetic acid peels

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is used as an intermediate to deep peeling agent in concentrations ranging from 20-50%. Depth of penetration is increased as concentration increases, with 50% TCA penetrating into the reticular dermis. Concentrations higher than 35% are not recommended because of the high risk of scarring.
Trichloroacetic acid peels:
  • are preferred for darker-skinned patients over Phenol
  • smooth out fine surface wrinkles
  • remove superficial blemishes
  • correct skin pigment problems
Trichloroacetic acid peels may:
  • require pre-treatment with Retin-A or AHA creams
  • require repeat treatment to maintain results
  • require the use of sunblock for several months (this is a must)
  • take several days to heal depending on the peel depth

Phenol peels

Phenol is the strongest of the chemical solutions and produces a deep skin peel. Some publications claim that phenol peel affect could be due to the action of croton oil and that phenol would not be effective without this oil. In reality, many phenol peel solutions exist that do not contain croton oil. This last is only a penetration enhancer, acting at the epidermal very superficial layers. Croton oil is not the only penetration enhancer that can be used. Effects of a phenol chemical peel are long lasting, and in some cases are still readily apparent up to 20 years following the procedure. Improvements in the patient’s skin can be quite dramatic. A single treatment usually achieves the desired result.
Phenol peels are used to:
  • correct blotches caused by sun exposure or aging
  • smooth out coarse deep wrinkles
  • remove precancerous growths
Phenol peels may:
  • pose a risk of arrythmias if applied without following strict rules
  • permanently remove facial freckles
  • many formulas cause permanent skin lightening by reducing the ability to produce pigment
  • require increased protection from the sun permanently

Complications of Chemical Peels

The deeper the peels the more complications that can arise. Chemical peels are risky and need to be administered by certified dermatologists. The possible complications include prolonged erythema, pigmentary changes, milia (white heads), skin atrophy and textural changes.

Anesthesia

Light chemical peels like AHA and glycolic acid peels are usually done in medical offices. There is minimal discomfort so usually no anesthetic is given because the patient feels only a slight stinging when the solution is applied. No pain killer is needed.
Medium peels like TCA are also performed in the doctor’s office or in an ambulatory surgery center as an outpatient procedure and are a bit more painful. Frequently, the combination of a tranquilizer like Valium and a pain pill usually suffice. TCA peels often do not require anesthesia even if the solution itself has - at the contrary of phenol - no numbing effect on the skin. The patient usually feels a warm or burning sensation.
Phenol is the classic deep chemical peel. Old phenol peel solutions are very painful and most practitioners will perform it under either general anesthesia, administered by an MD-anesthesiologist or nurse anesthetist. More recent formulas easily allow a simple heavy sedation, usually intravenous. Recent phenol peel formulas can be applied locally (chemical blepharoplasty or cheiloplasty)without any kind of anaesthesia. ( wiki )
Berikut ini adalah beberapa formulary night cream dari berbagai macam supplier bahan kimia.

1.Skin care: Facial Care:Rose Milk Night Cream
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Night creams
Supplier
Ciba, now part of BASF
End consumer benefits
softness
Description
Elegant cream used nightly to soften skin
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
Propylene Glycol
3.50
A
10.00
A
3.00
A
0.50
A
0.20
A
0.20
A
5.00
A
1.00
B
0.50
C
1.00
C
0.50
C
0.20
D
0.40
D
0.30
D
0.30
E
0.20
E
Rose Water
5.00
Properties
pH: 6.5-6.8; Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, spn 7, 10 rpm): 3000-3500 cps; Appearance: Thick, white, smooth cream.
Procedure
Add Part A to main vessel singularly and begin heating to 75-80C. At 75-80C, Mix for 15 minutes. Begin cooling and add Part B and mix until homogeneous. At 50 add Part C singularly with mixing in between. Continue cooling to 35C. At 35C add Part D and E singularly with mixing in between.


2.Skin care: O/W-Night Cream
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Night creams
Supplier
Clariant
End consumer benefits

Description
O/W formulation
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
2.00
A
3.00
A
2.00
A
2.00
A
1.00
A
1.00
A
7.00
A
1.00
A
5.00
A
2.00
A
1.00
B
0.20
C
0.80
C
3.00
D
0.40
D
q.s.
Properties
-
Procedure
1 Melt A at approx. 70°C, then add B.
2 Heat C to approx. 70°C.
3 Stir 2 into 1 and stir until cool.
4 At approx. 35°C add D to 3.
5 Homogenize the emulsion.

3.Skin Care: Facial Care:Night Cream
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Night creams
Supplier
Ineos Silicas
End consumer benefits
smoothness
Description
Smooth white lotion
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
Emulsifying wax
3.00
A
1.50
A
1.00
A
3.00
A
Macadamia oil
6.00
A
Almond oil
4.00
A
Isocetyl isostearoyl stearate
2.00
A
2.00
A
2.00
A
0.50
A
0.50
A
1.00
A
0.50
B
EDTA disodium salt
0.10
B
3.00
C
2.00
D
0.80
D
0.30
Properties
Appearance: Smooth white lotion; Viscosity @ 25C (RVT, Spindle TC @ 10 rpm): 10000 – 15000 cps; pH @ 25C : 6.0 – 7.5.
Procedure
1. Add part A ingredients to a suitable vessel and heat to 80 - 850C with stirring
until all are melted.
2. Add part B ingredients to a suitable vessel and heat to 75 - 800C with stirring
until all are dispersed.
3. Slowly add part B to part A with moderate stirring while maintaining
temperature at 75 - 800C.
4. Add part C in portions to the mixture from step 3 with moderate mixing. Ensure
that all is dispersed and that no lumps remain (note: it may be necessary to
reduce stirrer speed as the mixture begins to thicken).
5. If possible, homogenize until a smooth emulsion is formed.
6. Cool to 40 - 450C with slow stirring and add part D.
7. Cool to 300C with slow stirring and fill into suitable containers.




4.Facial Care-Night Cream - O/W
Category
Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Night creams
Supplier
Uniqema
End consumer benefits

Description
O/W formulation
Ingredients
Phase
INCI Name
Quantity (%)
A
20.00
A
10.00
A
5.00
A
3.00
A
2.00
A
2.00
A
Antioxidant
1.00
B
5.50
B
4.00
B
Preservative
0.10
C
0.10
D
0.10
Properties
-
Procedure
Mix the Sorbitan Stearate; Sucrose Cocoate in the heated water phase at 80°C under moderate stirring until homogeneous dispersion is formed. Disperse the hydrocolloid in the heated aqueous phase at 75°C with moderate stirring. Add the heated oil phase to the aqueous phase under intensive stirring. Homogenize the mixture intensively for one minute. Add phase D at 50°C and control pH. Cool to 35°C while stirring moderately. Add heat sensitive ingredients while stirring moderately.



NIGHT CREAM
( Anti wrinkle agent )
BAHAN – BAHAN :  ( innolex )

            Lexemul CS – 20                                 50  gram

            EMULLIUM DELTA                          20  gram
            Cosmo wax                                          15  gram
            MPG                                                    30  cc
            Glycerin                                               30  cc
            Dimethicone  100 cps                         4   cc
            Olive oil                                             10  cc
            Nipagin                                              2  gram
            Nipasol                                               0,5  gram
            BHT                                                    0,2  gram
            Aquadest                                        700  cc
            Extrak Cammomile                        20  cc
             Extrak  Aloe vera                          10  cc
            Lactic acid                                        1  cc
            Citric acid                                         0,5  gram
            Malic acid                                        0,5  gram

CARA PEMBUATAN 

1.      Timbang  Lexemul CS – 20 = 70 gram , masuk wadah
2.      Timbang Cosmo wax  = 15  gram , masuk wadah
3.      Ukur MPG = 30  cc , masuk wadah
4.      Ukur Glycerin = 30  cc , masuk wadah
5.      Ukur Dimethicone = 4 cc , masuk wadah
6.      Ukur Olive oil 10 = cc , masuk wadah
7.      Timbang Nipagin = 2 gram , masuk wadah
8.      Timbang Nipasol = 0,5  gram , masuk wadah
9.      Timbang BHT = 0,2  gram , masuk wadah
10.  Ukur Aquadest = 750  cc , masuk wadah
11.  Semua bahan yang ada di wadah dipanaskan sampai leleh dan
          tercampur rata
12.  (11) diaduk – aduk sampai mengental dan terbentuk emulsi / cream
13.  (12) + Extrak Aloe Vera = 10 cc , aduk sampai rata
14.  (13) + Extrak Cammomile = 20  cc , aduk sampai rata
15.  (14) + Lactic acid =  1 gram aduk samapai rata
16.  (15) + Citric acid = 0,5 gram aduk sampai rata
17.  (16) + Malic acid = 0,5 gram aduk sampai rata
18.  (17) + parfum secukupnya, aduk sampai  rata

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