Skin whitening, skin lightening and skin bleaching

Skin whitening, skin lightening and skin bleaching refers to the practice of using chemical substances in an attempt to lighten skin tone or provide an even skin complexion by lessening the concentration of melanin. Several chemicals have been shown to be effective in skin whitening, while some have proved to be toxic or have questionable safety profiles, adding to the controversy surrounding their use and impacts on certain ethnic groups.

Uses

Specific zones of abnormally high pigmentation such as moles and birthmarks may be depigmented to match to the surrounding skin. Conversely, in cases of vitiligo, unaffected skin may be lightened to achieve a more uniform appearance. However, in cases where these spot treatment creams are used in attempt to lighten the entire complexion, all of the current methods are considered ineffective. Complete skin depigmentation is simply a futile process. An additional application is genital or anal bleaching, intended to reduce the typically darker pigmentation of the genital and perianal area.

Long term use of skin whiteners can lead to pigmentation increasing to the joints of the fingers, toes, buttocks and ears. The skin of the face can become thinned and the area around the eyes can have increased pigmentation causing a 'bleach panda effect'.

Combination treatments

Most skin-lightening treatments, which can reduce or block some amount of melanin production, are aimed at inhibiting tyrosinase. Many treatments use a combination of topical lotions or gels containing melanin-inhibiting ingredients along with a sunscreen, and a prescription retinoid. Depending on how the skin responds to these treatments, exfoliants — either in the form of topical cosmetic or chemical peels — and lasers may be used. New development using LED systems are also showing good results.

Pre-melanin synthesis

Tretinoin

Research has shown that the use of Tretinoin (also known as all-trans retinoic acid) can only be somewhat effective in treating skin discolorations.

Users of tretinoin have to avoid sunlight, as the skin can tan. Using tretinoin makes the skin more sensitive to UVA and UVB rays.

During melanin sythesis

Hydroquinone

In medical literature, hydroquinone is considered the primary topical ingredient for inhibiting melanin production. Its components have potent antioxidant abilities. Topical hydroquinone comes in 2% (available in cosmetics) to 4% (or more) concentrations (available from a physician or by prescription), alone or in combination with tretinoin 0.05% to 0.1%. Research has shown hydroquinone and tretinoin to prevent sun- or hormone-induced melasma.

Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production, meaning that it prevents skin from making the substance responsible for skin color.^[8] Hydroquinone does not bleach the skin but lightens it, and can only disrupt the synthesis and production of melanin hyperpigmentation. It has been banned in some countries (e.g. France) because of fears of a cancer risk.

Some concerns about hydroquinone's safety on skin have been expressed, but the research when it comes to topical application indicates negative reactions are minor or a result of using extremely high concentrations or from other skin-lightening agents such as glucocorticoids or mercury iodine. Any perceived risk is most likely applicable for African women. Hydroquinone has been shown to cause leukemia in mice and other animals. The European Union banned it from cosmetics in 2001, but it shows up in bootleg creams in the developing world. It is sold in the United States as an over-the-counter drug, but with a concentration of hydroquinone not exceeding 2 percent.

Because of hydroquinone's action on the skin, it can be irritant, particularly in higher concentrations of 4% or greater and predictably when combined with tretinoin. Some medications have been created that combine 4% hydroquinone with tretinoin and a form of cortisone. The cortisone is included as an anti-inflammatory. The negative side effect of repeated application of cortisone is countered by the positive effect of the tretinoin so that it does not cause thinning of skin and damage to collagen. Safer alternatives are more expensive but are available.

Arbutin

Some of alternative lighteners are natural sources of hydroquinone. They include Mitracarpus scaber extract, Uva ursi (bearberry) extract, Morus bombycis (mulberry), Morus alba (white mulberry), and Broussonetia papyrifera (paper mulberry). All of these contain arbutin (technically known as hydroquinone-beta-D-glucoside), which can inhibit melanin production. Pure forms of arbutin are considered more potent for affecting skin lightening (alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin, and deoxy-arbutin). Beta-Arbutin is also known by its more common name of Bearberry extract

Arbutin is derived from the leaves of bearberry, cranberry, mulberry or blueberry shrubs, and also is present in most types of pears. It can have melanin-inhibiting properties.^[12] Arbutin and other plant extracts are considered safe alternatives to commonly used depigmenting agents to make the skin fairer. Medical studies have shown the efficiency of Arbutin for skin lightening. There are patents controlling its use for skin lightening. Arbutin actually exists in two conformations, alpha and beta. The alpha conformation offers higher stability over the beta conformation and is the preferred form for skin lightening indications.

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice wine. Some research shows kojic acid to be effective for inhibiting melanin production. However, kojic acid is an unstable ingredient in cosmetic formulations. Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn brown and lose its efficacy. Many cosmetic companies use kojic dipalmitate as an alternative because it is more stable in formulations. However, there is no research showing kojic dipalmitate to be as effective as kojic acid, although is it a good antioxidant. Further, some controversial research has suggested that kojic acid may have carcinogenic properties in large doses. Other further studies show that kojic acid is not carcinogenic, but can cause allergic contact dermatitis and skin irritation.

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is a component of grains, such as wheat, rye, and barley. It is applied topically in a cream formulation at a 20% concentration. Azelaic acid is used to treat acne, but there also is research showing it to be effective for skin discolorations. Other research also indicates azelaic acid may be an option for inhibiting melanin production.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C and its various forms (ascorbic acid, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, etc.) are considered an effective antioxidant for the skin and help to lighten skin. One study found it raises glutathione levels in the body. Another study found that brownish guinea pigs given vitamin C, vitamin E and L-cysteine, simultaneously, lead to lighter skin.

Cinnamomum subavenium

Cinnamomum subavenium, a Chinese herb, has been suggested for use as a skin whitening agent. The plant contains substances which inhibit production of tyrosinase an enzyme which catalyzes the production of melanin. The herb has not been established as either effective or safe but is being researched by Hui-Min Wang and his colleagues at Kaohsiung Medical University in Taiwan where experiments shown that it was effective at causing Zebrafish to lose their stripes.

Post-melanin synthesis

Alpha hydroxy acids

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) — primarily in the form of lactic acid and glycolic acid — are the most researched forms of AHAs because they have a molecular size that allows effective penetration into the top layers of skin. It is generally assumed that in and of themselves AHAs in concentrations of 4% to 15% are not effective for inhibiting melanin production and will not lighten skin discolorations in that manner. It is believed that their benefit is in helping cell turnover rates and removing unhealthy or abnormal layers of superficial skin cells (exfoliation) where hyperpigmented cells can accumulate. However, other research has shown that lactic and glycolic acids can indeed inhibit melanin production separate from their actions as an exfoliant on skin.

Alpha hydroxy acid peels (using 50% concentrations or greater) may remove skin discolorations. Only a qualified physician should perform these types of facial peels.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is claimed to be a much safer alternative when applied topically for skin or genitalia whitening. According to a cosmetic company, it has no adverse side-effects and as well as acne reduction, also increases skin moisture and reduces fine wrinkles.

Other/ungrouped

Depigmenting agents

Most commonly, depigmentation of the skin is linked to people born with vitiligo, which produces differing areas of light and dark skin. These individuals, if they so decided to use a lightening process to even out their skin tone, could apply a topical cream containing the organic compound monobenzone to lessen the remaining pigment. Monobenzone may cause destruction of melanocytes and permanent depigmentation. An alternate method of lightening is to use the chemical mequinol over an extended period of time. Increasingly, people who are not afflicted with the vitiligo experiment with lower concentrations of monobenzone creams in the hope of lightening their skin tone evenly. However, monobenzone is not recommended for skin conditions other than vitiligo.

Mercury

Many skin whiteners contain toxic mercury such as mercury(II) chloride or ammoniated mercury as the active ingredient. However mercury has been banned in most countries (Europe 1976)(USA 1990) for use in skin whitening because it accumulates on skin and it can have the opposite results in the long term. Some studies suggest that long-term use could cause systemic absorption that leads to tissue accumulation of the substance.

Other

Other options with some amount of research regarding their potential skin lightening abilities are licorice extract (specifically glabridin).^]

There is also a small amount of research showing oral supplements of pomegranate extract, ellagic acid, vitamin E, and ferulic acid can inhibit melanin production.

Laser treatments

Both ablative and nonablative lasers can have a profound effect on melasma. However, the results are not always consistent, and problems have been reported (such as hypo- or hyperpigmentation). Laser treatments of this kind are more likely to result in problems for those with darker skin tones.

Cryosurgery

Another alternative to laser treatment is cryosurgery using liquid nitrogen. Controlled destruction of skin cells causes the skin to naturally regenerate itself. Excess melanin comes to the surface and peels off in a few days. This is particularly useful in sensitive areas like the genitals where laser treatment could leave a scar. Efficacy of the treatment depends on the depth of the pigment. Freckles in any part of the body can be treated the same way.

Controversy

In recent years the practice of skin lightening has come under fire because of its potential negative health effects and association with colonialism and self-imagery. There is evidence to suggest that some types of skin-whitening products use active ingredients (such as mercurous chloride) and hydroquinone which can be harmful. Hydroquinone has now been banned in Europe and in many other countries can only be prescribed by a doctor for certain skin conditions.

There is a growing market in skin lightening products that are toxic-free. However, they are more costly due to their expensive ingredients. Japan and the Pacific are big markets for high quality skin lightening products imported from Europe. In India, Fair and Lovely by Unilever remains a popular brand despite the company being forced to withdraw television advertisements for the product in 2007

Skin care: O/W Whitening Facial Cream
Category	Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Whitening preparations
Supplier	Tagra biotechnologies
End consumer benefits	long-lasting protection whitening
Description	O/W formulation containing Polymethyl Methacrylate; Glycyrrhiza Glabra; (licorice) root extract; Tricaprylin; BHT
Ingredients	Phase INCI Name Quantity (%) A Clyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate 6.00 A Polysorbate 60 0.80 A PEG-30; Dipolyhydroxystearic acid 0.50 A Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 8.00 A Titanium Dioxide; Triethylhexanoin; Isohexadecane; Aluminium Stearate; Alumina; Polyhydroxystearic Acid 10.00 A Kojic Dipalmitate 2.00 A Cetearyl Alcohol 1.50 A Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00 A Dimethicone 1.00 B Aqua 100.00 B Panthenol Allantoin 0.10 B Glycerin 3.00 B Xanthan Gum 0.20 C Aqua 5.00 C Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 1.00 D Polymethyl Methacrylate; Glycyrrhiza Glabra; (licorice) root extract; Tricaprylin; BHT 1.25 E Propylene Glycol; Diazolidinyl Urea; Methylparaben; Propylparaben 1.00 F Parfum q.s.
Properties	-
Procedure	1. Add Alpha to water and heat to 45-40 degreesC. Mix Glycerin plus xanthan gum and add to warm water (stir for 20-30 minutes). 2. Heat Phase A (without Titanium Dioxide; Triethylhexanoin; Isohexadecane; Aluminium Stearate; Alumina; Polyhydroxystearic Acid and Cyclopentasiloxane ) and B at 75-80degrees C. 3. Add Solaveil CT200 to A when all ingredients are already melted. 4. Add phase A to B whilst stirring moderately (200 rpm aprox). Add DC 345 fluid. 5. Homogenize AB for 1 and a half minutes (Silverson: 3.00 rpm). 6. Allow to cool down at 45-40 degrees C stirring slowly. 7. Adjust final pH around 7.0 with NaOH (20-25%). 8. Cool down at room temperature stirring slowly.

Skin Care:Facial Care:Skin Whitening Cream-Gel
Category	Skin care (Facial care, Facial cleansing, Body care, Baby care) >> Facial care >> Whitening preparations
Supplier	Pentapharm
End consumer benefits	protection smoothness
Description	This light cream-gel leaves a smooth feeling on the skin. It is a powerful whitening active Alpha-Arbutin and Superoxide Dismutase, which protects the skin from oxidative stress.
Ingredients	Phase INCI Name Quantity (%) A Ethylhexyl Ethylhexanoate 5.00 A Isohexadecan 2.00 A Diethylhexyl Carbonate 5.00 A Dimethicone 1.00 B Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate; VP Copolymer 1.20 C Glycerin 5.00 C Aqua 69.60 C Superoxide Dismutase 0.20 C Preservative q.s. D Aqua 10.00 D Alpha-Arbutin 1.00 E Citric Acid q.s.
Properties	-
Procedure	Mix phase A). Add phase B) to phase A) and stir until the mixture is homogeneous. Disperse Phenonip in Glycerin, then add the other ingredients of phase C). Add phase D) to phase C). Then add phase CD) to phase AB). Homogenize to obtain a homogeneous cream-gel. If necessary, adjust the pH with phase E) to approx. 5.0.